I arrange to meet the Evans gang in
Taikang Rd which is a 10 minute walk from the hotel. With the weather being 35
and very high humidity this wasn't as pleasant as it sounded.
Anyway we meet up in an area which is a series of back alleyways that has been done up as an eclectic mix of galleries, coffee shops, clothing shops and other up market stalls. It is very interesting how China is becoming westernised in some ways and yet retaining the small market and uniqueness that is so missing in many parts of the world.
The homogeneity of large cities where the shopping centres are cookie cutters of every other large shopping centre has ruined the experience for somebody like me who loves to shop. But in this little area there is so much to see and absorb. One little shop was a gallery of magnificent photographs taken by just one photographer, many of which capture the charm of this great city.
While waiting to meet up with the others we walk into a shopping mall that had vase empty common areas with no seating where Liza and Rod eat some noodles they have bought only to be told politely that it wasn’t allowed to eat them there.
Rodney meanwhile has had a haircut and we meet at a Hunnan restaurant that we have stumbled on and where we have a GREAT meal including fish head soup, spicy prawns, beans, chicken feet (not me) and duck. The bill arrives $9 per person for a LOT of food!! Mike Evans picks up the bill and leaves a tip only to have the waitress come flying down the escalator to return the tip - I think Mike has applied for residency!
Anyway it is now mid-afternoon and I go back to the hotel for a rest but after 10 minutes I decide to go and walk around the neighbourhood where I stumble on an up market supermarket/delicatessen/fruitery which sells white cherries - and my day has been made.
At 6:30 I head to the Kee Club where Rodney is holding his 40th birthday party. It is a modern day version of a gentleman's club located in a beautiful colonial building. Champagne when we arrive and meeting a lot of friends that Rodney has made during his seven years in Shanghai including Australian Expats, Chinese locals and people from all around the world. A wonderful meal ensues including lobster with mango salsa, scallops with truffles, Australian tenderloin or sea bass and tiramisu. A nice speech from Rodney and the crowd parties on as I slip out after 23:00 for a good night's sleep.
Next morning I head to Rodney's apartment directing the driver who amazingly spoke English to Rod’s studio rather than his home - but luckily they aren’t too far apart. Located in a beautiful tree-lines street in the French Concession, it is a beautifully restored maybe 50 year old apartment atop a three story building the outside of which belies the lovely apartments inside. I would guess that in years gone by six families had lived in the 200+ square metres but with its rooftop deck, organic balcony garden three bedrooms and three bathrooms it is quite wonderful. I was shocked on two fronts when I asked and found out that the apartment would cost around $A4-$A5 million and the rent was a mere $A1000 per week - not a good return on investment - 1% Gross!!
We head out to the "Fake Market" where I manage to spend $A10 on something I really didn’t need but there you have it. The girls however managed to garner a lot of bags etc. and were happy with their haul. We walk down the road in search of some food/drink only to find some more shops after which we have a light snack before heading back to Rodney's place where a full BBQ sausage and steak lunch awaits us.
I only just made it back to Rod’s as the taxi driver decided on w a whim to head directly across oncoming traffic which was travelling at speed into pedestrians crossing the road and the down the wrong side of the road. Now it takes a lot for me to put on my seat belt in a cab but…..
The meal with Quinoa Salad is great (except perhaps the white corn) and I spend around ninety minutes talking to one of Rod's friends about how business is done in China ranging from getting approvals to tax investigations. Interestingly traffic accidents are settled on the spot by the parties agreeing an amount and the police getting both parties to sign a settlement agreement. The insurance companies then just reimburse the amount of the settlement. Truly interesting.
Around 19:00 I head back to the hotel for an early night.
Monday morning and I grab some time for myself and spend three hours walking around neighbourhoods and shops near my hotel including shopping for baby clothes – a long forgotten but pleasurable pastime which I am happy to renew. Luckily Liza is heading back on Tuesday night with only one bag so I am able to send any shopping back with her. As I left Sydney 1kg overweight this is a relief. With 18 youth bridge players in Taicang any further shopping is easily despatched right home as I leave China.
Around 14:00 I head off to Rodney’s place to find nobody at home so I wait at the Vienna CafĂ© across the road and have a very good Latte. Rod, Mike and Ollie turn up grabbing a quick pork schnitzel with Kartoffelsalat which looked darn good.
Rod’s driver and van takes us to the waterpark where I am guessing there are 10,000 Chinese who have each paid $A25 entry to use the waterslides, lazy river, artificial beach all carrying huge floats around the large park which, although packed, I am told wasn’t all that busy.
That night we head to a North Eastern Chinese Cuisine. Rod’s wife Natasha whose baby is due in October has a Russian Father and Chinese Mother from Northern Mongolia so this cuisine is very near to their hearts. One interesting dish among MANY was the sweet/sour pork which was like a pork schnitzel with sweetness contrasted with vinegar sourness – quite unusual and lovely taste. The meal for the eleven of us totalled $A80 - $7.50 a head – now I am sure that Mike will be moving here soon.
I leave slightly before they are finished as I have a number of emails I have to respond to and then a lateish night.
Tuesday morning and I am all packed and in the lobby as Rod’s driver picks me up and then Natasha, Liza and Chris to take us to a Cashmere manufacturer who is a friend of Natasha’s. I bought some pieces but very little compared to others. We head back to Rod’s studio and then Yum Cha lunch where we discuss his business for three hours as I have been trying to help Rodney put more structure in his business as it is growing and needs some discipline.
Very luckily for me Rod reciprocates my business advice by providing me with his van and driver to take me to Taicang, the venue of the Youth Bridge Championships and where I will be “working” for the next ten days.
Shanghai is one of my favourite cities in the world with the mix of old world new world being intoxicating. Being in a taxi going along narrow streets and seeing a pushbike loaded with about 2 metres of flattened cardboard boxes surrounding the driver on the sides on top with two young ladies sitting on top to ensure that the cardboard did not fall off or fly away – simply magic. More and more I find the world to be homogenous and Shanghai totally deconstructs this although I think as time goes on this charm will be lost.
I arrive in Taicang to a hotel where all the staff think they can understand English but in fact understand nothing.
“No booking sir”
“WBF”
Puzzled look
“World Bridge Federation”
More puzzled look
I take her to the front of the hotel and show her a massive banner welcoming participants. Slowly she is beginning to understand and finds my booking.
A “niceish” room but it is a major step down from my previous hotel. Well a step down and 57 square metres down to about 25. Clearly the architects had never been in the room as it was less than functional as evidenced by the cupboard door which could not be opened due to the bedside table hard up against it. Anyway it’s fine.
A major unpack, the delivery of a wireless router for my tech needs and I walk the 1.5 kilometres to the hotel where the youth teams are all staying and catch up with them before heading back to my hotel for dinner with a lot of my friends who are running the tournament and co-workers.
Next morning and another breakfast – hotel same old same old breakfasts get boring really fast – and I head off to the venue which is a gymnastics stadium but it works really well. I watch some bridge catch up with more friends and co-workers. Per-Olof Sundelin “PO” as he is known is my co-commentator for the Vugraph. We head out for lunch and after about 2kms of a fruitless search for a restaurant we settle on…….yes folks KFC which wasn’t as bad as it sounds after 5 days of Chinese food.
Back to the hotel via Wal*Mart where I update my blog.
More soon
XX David
Anyway we meet up in an area which is a series of back alleyways that has been done up as an eclectic mix of galleries, coffee shops, clothing shops and other up market stalls. It is very interesting how China is becoming westernised in some ways and yet retaining the small market and uniqueness that is so missing in many parts of the world.
The homogeneity of large cities where the shopping centres are cookie cutters of every other large shopping centre has ruined the experience for somebody like me who loves to shop. But in this little area there is so much to see and absorb. One little shop was a gallery of magnificent photographs taken by just one photographer, many of which capture the charm of this great city.
While waiting to meet up with the others we walk into a shopping mall that had vase empty common areas with no seating where Liza and Rod eat some noodles they have bought only to be told politely that it wasn’t allowed to eat them there.
Rodney meanwhile has had a haircut and we meet at a Hunnan restaurant that we have stumbled on and where we have a GREAT meal including fish head soup, spicy prawns, beans, chicken feet (not me) and duck. The bill arrives $9 per person for a LOT of food!! Mike Evans picks up the bill and leaves a tip only to have the waitress come flying down the escalator to return the tip - I think Mike has applied for residency!
Anyway it is now mid-afternoon and I go back to the hotel for a rest but after 10 minutes I decide to go and walk around the neighbourhood where I stumble on an up market supermarket/delicatessen/fruitery which sells white cherries - and my day has been made.
At 6:30 I head to the Kee Club where Rodney is holding his 40th birthday party. It is a modern day version of a gentleman's club located in a beautiful colonial building. Champagne when we arrive and meeting a lot of friends that Rodney has made during his seven years in Shanghai including Australian Expats, Chinese locals and people from all around the world. A wonderful meal ensues including lobster with mango salsa, scallops with truffles, Australian tenderloin or sea bass and tiramisu. A nice speech from Rodney and the crowd parties on as I slip out after 23:00 for a good night's sleep.
Next morning I head to Rodney's apartment directing the driver who amazingly spoke English to Rod’s studio rather than his home - but luckily they aren’t too far apart. Located in a beautiful tree-lines street in the French Concession, it is a beautifully restored maybe 50 year old apartment atop a three story building the outside of which belies the lovely apartments inside. I would guess that in years gone by six families had lived in the 200+ square metres but with its rooftop deck, organic balcony garden three bedrooms and three bathrooms it is quite wonderful. I was shocked on two fronts when I asked and found out that the apartment would cost around $A4-$A5 million and the rent was a mere $A1000 per week - not a good return on investment - 1% Gross!!
We head out to the "Fake Market" where I manage to spend $A10 on something I really didn’t need but there you have it. The girls however managed to garner a lot of bags etc. and were happy with their haul. We walk down the road in search of some food/drink only to find some more shops after which we have a light snack before heading back to Rodney's place where a full BBQ sausage and steak lunch awaits us.
I only just made it back to Rod’s as the taxi driver decided on w a whim to head directly across oncoming traffic which was travelling at speed into pedestrians crossing the road and the down the wrong side of the road. Now it takes a lot for me to put on my seat belt in a cab but…..
The meal with Quinoa Salad is great (except perhaps the white corn) and I spend around ninety minutes talking to one of Rod's friends about how business is done in China ranging from getting approvals to tax investigations. Interestingly traffic accidents are settled on the spot by the parties agreeing an amount and the police getting both parties to sign a settlement agreement. The insurance companies then just reimburse the amount of the settlement. Truly interesting.
Around 19:00 I head back to the hotel for an early night.
Monday morning and I grab some time for myself and spend three hours walking around neighbourhoods and shops near my hotel including shopping for baby clothes – a long forgotten but pleasurable pastime which I am happy to renew. Luckily Liza is heading back on Tuesday night with only one bag so I am able to send any shopping back with her. As I left Sydney 1kg overweight this is a relief. With 18 youth bridge players in Taicang any further shopping is easily despatched right home as I leave China.
Around 14:00 I head off to Rodney’s place to find nobody at home so I wait at the Vienna CafĂ© across the road and have a very good Latte. Rod, Mike and Ollie turn up grabbing a quick pork schnitzel with Kartoffelsalat which looked darn good.
Rod’s driver and van takes us to the waterpark where I am guessing there are 10,000 Chinese who have each paid $A25 entry to use the waterslides, lazy river, artificial beach all carrying huge floats around the large park which, although packed, I am told wasn’t all that busy.
That night we head to a North Eastern Chinese Cuisine. Rod’s wife Natasha whose baby is due in October has a Russian Father and Chinese Mother from Northern Mongolia so this cuisine is very near to their hearts. One interesting dish among MANY was the sweet/sour pork which was like a pork schnitzel with sweetness contrasted with vinegar sourness – quite unusual and lovely taste. The meal for the eleven of us totalled $A80 - $7.50 a head – now I am sure that Mike will be moving here soon.
I leave slightly before they are finished as I have a number of emails I have to respond to and then a lateish night.
Tuesday morning and I am all packed and in the lobby as Rod’s driver picks me up and then Natasha, Liza and Chris to take us to a Cashmere manufacturer who is a friend of Natasha’s. I bought some pieces but very little compared to others. We head back to Rod’s studio and then Yum Cha lunch where we discuss his business for three hours as I have been trying to help Rodney put more structure in his business as it is growing and needs some discipline.
Very luckily for me Rod reciprocates my business advice by providing me with his van and driver to take me to Taicang, the venue of the Youth Bridge Championships and where I will be “working” for the next ten days.
Shanghai is one of my favourite cities in the world with the mix of old world new world being intoxicating. Being in a taxi going along narrow streets and seeing a pushbike loaded with about 2 metres of flattened cardboard boxes surrounding the driver on the sides on top with two young ladies sitting on top to ensure that the cardboard did not fall off or fly away – simply magic. More and more I find the world to be homogenous and Shanghai totally deconstructs this although I think as time goes on this charm will be lost.
I arrive in Taicang to a hotel where all the staff think they can understand English but in fact understand nothing.
“No booking sir”
“WBF”
Puzzled look
“World Bridge Federation”
More puzzled look
I take her to the front of the hotel and show her a massive banner welcoming participants. Slowly she is beginning to understand and finds my booking.
A “niceish” room but it is a major step down from my previous hotel. Well a step down and 57 square metres down to about 25. Clearly the architects had never been in the room as it was less than functional as evidenced by the cupboard door which could not be opened due to the bedside table hard up against it. Anyway it’s fine.
A major unpack, the delivery of a wireless router for my tech needs and I walk the 1.5 kilometres to the hotel where the youth teams are all staying and catch up with them before heading back to my hotel for dinner with a lot of my friends who are running the tournament and co-workers.
Next morning and another breakfast – hotel same old same old breakfasts get boring really fast – and I head off to the venue which is a gymnastics stadium but it works really well. I watch some bridge catch up with more friends and co-workers. Per-Olof Sundelin “PO” as he is known is my co-commentator for the Vugraph. We head out for lunch and after about 2kms of a fruitless search for a restaurant we settle on…….yes folks KFC which wasn’t as bad as it sounds after 5 days of Chinese food.
Back to the hotel via Wal*Mart where I update my blog.
More soon
XX David
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