Well I described my accommodation as shabby chic of the top order but that really undersells the whole place. The room is very well appointed and everything has been very carefully thought out. The hosts are exceptionally welcoming and nothing is too much for them.
Wednesday morning and I intend on having a relatively relaxing day head 20kms towards the Abbey at Paimpont. The current Abbey is the third on the site with the latest just 700+ years old. It is quite beautiful and with not many tourists it allows one to enjoy the solitude that a place like this offers.
It turns out that this area is the home to the Merlin legend, something I figured out when every shop was selling Merlin and other magical items.
I then head 44kms to Rennes which is a very pretty town with the usual cobbled stone streets, the medieval town square and a nice combination of old and new. Feeling hungry I go for something different, Sushi but even more different - Foie Gras and Fig sushi and I have to tell you it was g-r-e-a-t especially when I tried it with soy which counter-balanced the sweetness of the figs.
I spent some time walking around the unusual shops but very much in keeping with this holiday I didn't buy a single thing. Well yes I bought some cheese, biscuits, salad items and dressing which became the dinner for this evening.
Next morning, after a hearty breakfast put on by my hostess, I set off the 120kms to Mont St Michel [MSM]. Now I did say that I could have saved much of the 1700 kilometres that I have now driven in the past week with a little planning - well I couldn't here! I had been wanting to go to MSM ever since I saw a picture of it some five years ago and it exceeded every expectation. MSM sits on tidal flats and apparently the tide comes in unbelievably quickly to the point that a French friend of mine when I posted on FB where I was at sent me a message to be careful of the tides.
Getting to the top is no mean feat. It starts with a very steep climb up cobble stoned streets made more difficult by the rain which was around while I was there. And then one reaches a point where there are steps, more steps, more steps and you guessed it more steps. At one point my knee was excruciating painful but, perhaps with the end goal being a church it fixed itself just before I got to the top and was fine for the rest of the day.
It is an amazing example of Church/State/People with the unbelievable Merveille (the common name for the Abby) sitting on three stories atop the mountain (Church) surrounded by the ramparts just below (State) with the village at the foot of the "mountain" (People). Dating back to the 8th Century it is just so awesome that words can't describe it. One theme that has run through my tour of Chateaus and Churches is that nearly all of them were designed by ITALIAN architects. There must have been an incredible understanding of architecture that the nobility of France invariably turned to Italians to design their properties.
Read about it here:
Certainly no regrets with this one but if I have one criticism it is that the town through which one climbs is so touristy it slightly detracts from the experience. On the way down I had lunch at one of the touristy creperies and had a Gallette (buckwheat pancake "Specialite du Pays" with Chevre Onions and Tomato).
I head to the nearby seaside town of St Malo which is what one would expect from a seaside city but there is a certain bleakness here because I am guessing that the Atlantic Ocean doesn't offer much.
I probably haven't discussed the weather too much so here it is. Lille was good with 25-30 most days with an odd overcast day. The Loire was usually hovering around 25 with the odd day higher. But as I went to MSM the temperature has dropped to 17 degrees and it is quite gusty so I have had quite a range of temperatures.
I arrive back at Chateau du Pin to a home made meal of buckwheat pancake with salmon followed by crumble and a cheese plate.
I am going to change my approach to accommodation slightly and look more away from hotels and towards the style of accommodation I have experienced during the past week. In general terms the rates are equal or only marginally higher than hotels and they have so much to offer and are so willing to please in every way.
Next morning and I pack up and have my last breakfast during which the 21 and 10 year old sons of the owners talk football and other interesting subjects. Interestingly the 21 year old is about to embark on 6 months of voluntary work at an orphanage in Benin, West Africa - something which I found quite impressive.
I drove the 2 hours to Caen with a stop on the way to stretch my legs and check in to the Mercure Hotel. That afternoon I make myself some soup in the hotel while catching up on emails and other administrative matters and then do nothing but walk around the city which is a large French city with the usual Medieval square and church. I do however discover the laundromat just 100 metres from the hotel - Good choice Dave!!!
No dinner and an early night and next morning I head off at 10:00 to the ramparts, church, museum, Chateau all located in the centre of the city. I manage to get a breakfast which is kind of interesting. Most restaurants and cafes open for drinks only until midday and not many serve food before 12:00. I do manage two fried eggs on toast with mushroom and salad which has really his the spot. I asked the owner if the cappuccino was any good and he assures me it does after telling me in a most annoyed manner "every day" when I asked when the coffee machine was last cleaned. Taste of the coffee was good but damn it was weak!!!
I don't really know what I did but got back to the hotel around 15:00 for a nap. When I wake up I decide to try for a Michelin meal. I randomly find one that, afterf I book, turns out to be 30 metres from the hotel - Stephane Carbone Restaurant Icognito. I nearly passed on the booking when the person at the other end of the phone said "une person" with incredulity. It has mixed reviews on TripAdvisor so I will report back after the meal.
I arrive at a trendy modern restaurant to be greeted by a rather stiff Maitre di who over the course of the evening became more and more charming and friendly. The menu was of course all in French but when I saw the first page of the menu a Hommage to Homard I was sold. Two entrees and a main course all lobster - bring it on.
The first "Amuse Bouche" was just ok but the second one a chestnut (chataine) smoothie shot was beautiful. First course lobster with seasonal vegetables was great with the light vinaigrette and vegetables adding beautifully to the taste of the lobster. The second course I am not sure about lobster with black rice and coconut mousse. The main course of Lobster with asparagus was great with the asparagus done beautifully with mushroom flavours. Desert comprised a pistachio ice cream and raspberry tart - oh and their pre-dessert was vanilla custard with poached pears and marscapone.
Next morning at 08:00 and off to the "Laverie" to catch up on all my washing with which I have been lazy for the past few days. While the load was washing and drying I visited the large and I do mean large market which had sprung up overnight. Seafood, Meats, Cheeses, Produce, Fresh Crepes, Moroccan Food, Paella one after the other as far as the eye can see and then started the clothes, crafts etc. A fruit breakfast and finish the drying and back to the hotel as I head for Paris after lunch today.
Unless something interesting happens this will be my last post for this trip. Am having Chinese with Julien Gaviard and possibly Thomas Bessis on Monday night and may treat myself to another Michelin dinner on Tuesday.
This time I have decided to stay on Rive Gauche (Left Bank) and away from my comfort zone near Opera and I'm looking forward to walking around less trodden streets.
Thanks to thos who have taken the journey with me and see you all back in Sydney in less than a week
XD
I head to the nearby seaside town of St Malo which is what one would expect from a seaside city but there is a certain bleakness here because I am guessing that the Atlantic Ocean doesn't offer much.
I probably haven't discussed the weather too much so here it is. Lille was good with 25-30 most days with an odd overcast day. The Loire was usually hovering around 25 with the odd day higher. But as I went to MSM the temperature has dropped to 17 degrees and it is quite gusty so I have had quite a range of temperatures.
I arrive back at Chateau du Pin to a home made meal of buckwheat pancake with salmon followed by crumble and a cheese plate.
I am going to change my approach to accommodation slightly and look more away from hotels and towards the style of accommodation I have experienced during the past week. In general terms the rates are equal or only marginally higher than hotels and they have so much to offer and are so willing to please in every way.
Next morning and I pack up and have my last breakfast during which the 21 and 10 year old sons of the owners talk football and other interesting subjects. Interestingly the 21 year old is about to embark on 6 months of voluntary work at an orphanage in Benin, West Africa - something which I found quite impressive.
I drove the 2 hours to Caen with a stop on the way to stretch my legs and check in to the Mercure Hotel. That afternoon I make myself some soup in the hotel while catching up on emails and other administrative matters and then do nothing but walk around the city which is a large French city with the usual Medieval square and church. I do however discover the laundromat just 100 metres from the hotel - Good choice Dave!!!
No dinner and an early night and next morning I head off at 10:00 to the ramparts, church, museum, Chateau all located in the centre of the city. I manage to get a breakfast which is kind of interesting. Most restaurants and cafes open for drinks only until midday and not many serve food before 12:00. I do manage two fried eggs on toast with mushroom and salad which has really his the spot. I asked the owner if the cappuccino was any good and he assures me it does after telling me in a most annoyed manner "every day" when I asked when the coffee machine was last cleaned. Taste of the coffee was good but damn it was weak!!!
I don't really know what I did but got back to the hotel around 15:00 for a nap. When I wake up I decide to try for a Michelin meal. I randomly find one that, afterf I book, turns out to be 30 metres from the hotel - Stephane Carbone Restaurant Icognito. I nearly passed on the booking when the person at the other end of the phone said "une person" with incredulity. It has mixed reviews on TripAdvisor so I will report back after the meal.
I arrive at a trendy modern restaurant to be greeted by a rather stiff Maitre di who over the course of the evening became more and more charming and friendly. The menu was of course all in French but when I saw the first page of the menu a Hommage to Homard I was sold. Two entrees and a main course all lobster - bring it on.
The first "Amuse Bouche" was just ok but the second one a chestnut (chataine) smoothie shot was beautiful. First course lobster with seasonal vegetables was great with the light vinaigrette and vegetables adding beautifully to the taste of the lobster. The second course I am not sure about lobster with black rice and coconut mousse. The main course of Lobster with asparagus was great with the asparagus done beautifully with mushroom flavours. Desert comprised a pistachio ice cream and raspberry tart - oh and their pre-dessert was vanilla custard with poached pears and marscapone.
Next morning at 08:00 and off to the "Laverie" to catch up on all my washing with which I have been lazy for the past few days. While the load was washing and drying I visited the large and I do mean large market which had sprung up overnight. Seafood, Meats, Cheeses, Produce, Fresh Crepes, Moroccan Food, Paella one after the other as far as the eye can see and then started the clothes, crafts etc. A fruit breakfast and finish the drying and back to the hotel as I head for Paris after lunch today.
Unless something interesting happens this will be my last post for this trip. Am having Chinese with Julien Gaviard and possibly Thomas Bessis on Monday night and may treat myself to another Michelin dinner on Tuesday.
This time I have decided to stay on Rive Gauche (Left Bank) and away from my comfort zone near Opera and I'm looking forward to walking around less trodden streets.
Thanks to thos who have taken the journey with me and see you all back in Sydney in less than a week
XD



